Thursday, October 15, 2009

Portsmouth

Portsmouth was my favorite town on the entire trip. By its name, you can tell it's on the water.

I found the whole town charming with many buildings from the 17th-19th centuries. The downtown is filled with charming shops, good restaurants, and oodles of tourists. I don't know if I wrote about our B & B, but it was wonderful with 2 rooms and a sunporch--unfortunately it was a little cool for the sunporch.

We toured Strawberry Banke, which is an open air museum with buildings from the 17th-20th centuries. The Shapiro House was the most interesting for me because it was owned by a Jewish family around the turn of the twentieth century. Many of the buildings have costumed hosts/hostesses, who stay in character for their particular time period. The hostess at Shapiro House takes her "job" very seriously. In her kitchen, she had mandelbroit (cookies), honey cake, kreplach (filled dumplings), and homemade noodles. The dining room was set for shabbat dinner, and a number of the rooms had Jewish artifacts. We tried to find out about the current synagogue; fortunately it was already in existence when the Shapiros lived there so she was able to tell us where it was, and we were able to visit it.

I also particularly enjoyed a grocery store from 1943. Again the hostess made the experience particularly interesting. She was dressed in an American Legion Uniform and asked Dan why he wasn't fighting in the war. She also asked us for our ration books. I knew they existed during the war, but I had never seen them. What was most surprising was that so many of the brands (Campbells, Del Monte) from the 1940's look the same as they do now--no change in packaging in over 60 years.

The grounds and gardens were beautiful. There were swings and old-fashioned out-door games. Of course, I had to try them all.

One final note before I end my blog for this trip:

Wherever we toured the first few days in New England, we encountered "religious" Jews.

If you read my blog from this summer, you know they are as foreign to me as they are to my Christian friends. I have a difficult time understanding their old-fashioned (strict) way-of-life. At West Point, there were about 8-9. They were fascinated by the canons but refused to go into the West Point Chapel. Cooties???

Signing off for this trip....Hope you enjoyed. Shirley














Wednesday, October 14, 2009

People who "meet" people...

People who “meet” people are the luckiest people…..

This trip has been amazing not only because of the art, theater, opera, scenery, and history, but because of all the wonderful long time and brand new friends and relatives we’ve seen.

We spent a wonderful day in Tarrytown with our dear friends from home, Stan and Elaine, who were visiting family. (See first blog)

In NY we met up with Page (Atlanta) and Gloria,(Charlotte, NC) who roomed together in college. On our Baltic cruise four years ago we hooked up with them and six others to tour St. Petersberg. For ten people who had never known each other, we were extremely compatible and became instant life-long friends, who keep in touch via internet. Dan and I stayed overnight with Page and her husband, Dan, in their beautiful home on a lake in Atlanta, and we even went on an Elderhostel trip with them. On this trip, we spent two days with Page and Gloria touring the art museums of New York, laughing at some of the modern art (???), and drooling over the Impressionists. They both lust after Dan (or so they tell me and Page is even married!), but they are so wonderful I don’t mind.

The four of us had brunch with Joyce and Roger, (New Jersey) also from the Baltic cruise. Roger is a professor of mathematics at Rutgers and Joyce is a retired prof of economics. We caught up on all their trips—they even saw polar bears in the Arctic Circle!

In an earlier blog, I mentioned that we had dinner in NY with a long, lost second cousin of Dan’s, Esta and her husband. They came all the way from Baltimore to meet us! They were so delightful that we felt as if we had always known them.

Dan had a first cousin, David, close to his age, who unfortunately died very young—in his forties (he had diabetes since childhood). His widow, Coralyn, her significant other, her daughter, and granddaughter, live in Vermont, and had us over to dinner at her home. We thoroughly enjoyed their company and New England hospitality.

Over ten-fifteen years ago, we met a wonderful couple from New Jersey, Ruby and Will, when we were seated with them on a cruise. When we first met them, Will pretended to be a “soprano” type from NJ. All I could think was, “Oh, no! We’re stuck with him on the entire cruise!” It turned out that he was a professor of drama and English; both he and Ruby were delightful. We even met up with them some years ago when we toured Charleston. They now live half the year in Nova Scotia and half in Florida. Will was driving down to pick up Ruby, who was visiting friends in NY, and went out of his way to have breakfast and stimulating conversation with us.

Many years ago, I posted my maiden name on Jewish genealogy, and was contacted by a Sue Price from Providence, RI. It turns out we were related on my father’s side and her mother’s side, and she was able to fill in information about m great-great-grandparents. Sue, her mom Salome (pronounced Salom (long ‘O”), and her dad Sherman drove two hours to have lunch with us. Dan and I are very appreciative of how so many people on this trip drove or flew great distances to be with us. We’re honored, indeed! We had a three-hour lunch with family tree, family photos and documents spread out all over the table. The family resemblance from her photos and my photos was remarkable! It is wonderful to have new friends as well as new family.

Last night we had diner in Harvard Square with Dan’s first cousin, Janey, her husband, David, and their son, Danny. Danny is a senior at Boston Latin School, the oldest public school in the country. It is necessary to “test” to get into it. Danny and his parents feel it’s vastly overrated, and after a few of the horror stories Danny told, I have to agree. Janey has owned her own PR firm for years; her main client is MacDonalds, and David is a real estate lawyers. The last time we had seen Danny and David was at Danny’ Bar Mitzvah five years ago.

This morning my Dan had breakfast with Janey’s brother (Dan’s first cousin, )Larry and one of Larry’s daughter’s, Alyssa, who is a paralegal in Boston while her sister Amanda is an attorney in NY. I was too overwhelmed to make it at the early hour—not really early (9 AM), but I needed to pack for our schlep home. Also I no longer can look at AppleMarkfood!AppleMark

Sunday, October 11, 2009

A Poem Lovely as a Tree




Beyond Perfect or “I think that I shall never see a poem lovely as a tree….”

A few comments on NH---Ugly is outlawed by the state constitution, and quaint is mandated. Is it possible to get bored by beauty? I haven’t so far. The B & B we stayed in Friday night owned the covered bridge next to it. Behind the B & B was a beautiful rushing stream and more of the ubiquitous and mandated beautiful trees. All the buildings are decorated in fall—scarecrows, cornstalks, pumpkins. It is the perfect setting to celebrate Halloween and Thanksgiving.

We went on a five- hour train ride yesterday to Crawford Notch—the most scenic ride I’ve ever been on, and married to a train fanatic, I’ve been on many. Again we saw forest after forest of fall foliage. In order to take pictures, Dan hung his head out like a dog( minus the wagging tongue) in a car window taking picture after picture.

We are now in Portsmouth, MA in our most expensive stay on the trip: $200/ night including breakfast. At least it’s worth it. We have a a separate sitting room, and our own screened in porch—everything decorated in a charming and tasteful way. Everything is booked in New England this time of the year because Columbus Day is a MAJOR holiday. One more note about NH, I don’t think it has any freeways, and everyone seems to drive 5 miles UNDER the speedlimit. I miss good old CA speed demons!

…..Shirley

Saturday, October 10, 2009

Fall Foliage, Part 2

Fall Foliage, Part 2

Leaving White River Junction, we visited Billings Farm. I thought—farm, big deal! But it was. The grounds were extensive, again with rolling green fields of beautifully mowed grass and trees in the fall colors. First of all we watched an academy award nominated movie about the history of the farm, which has been owned by 3 families beginning in the nineteenth century: Marsh, Billings, and Lawrence Roosevelt—each was a visionary and conservationist. Billings (as in the capital of Montana) was the most fascinating. He lived in San Francisco for part of his life, helping to establish the University of CA at Berkeley. (f he’d known what a pitiful football team we’d have, maybe he wouldn’t have been involved!)

The farm is quite large with cows, horses, sheep, and chickens. We were able to see them up close and personal. In the field, the cows had a particular eau d’cow, which prevented me from making a long visit. Inside a barn were all the milk cows and pregnant cows. It was around 11:30 and they weren’t going to be milked until four, but, they looked very ready. If a Baby’s R Us had been nearby, I would have treated them to a breast pump! Their calves are taken from them when they’re hours old! I think that’s cruel, but we were able to visit the calves, too, and they didn’t look unhappy.

We toured an old farmhouse that was built for the farm manager by Marsh. I thought it was more charming and livable than Roosevelt’s home. This next bit is for my friend, Elaine. In Roosevelt’s home were a large number of stuffed birds. Birds fascinated him, and his father let him kill one female and one male of each breed but not during breeding or nesting season. The farmhouse was very modern for its day with hot and cold running water and indoor plumbing.

Near the farm was Woodstock, Vermont (not THE Woodstock, NY). It is considered the quintessential New England town, and it was most charming—somewhat like but smaller than Carmel with little shops. art galleries, restaurants and tons of tourists.

On the way to our Inn, we stopped at Queeche Gorge, which was very nice (I damn with faint praise) until we saw much more incredible sights yesterday and today. The ride was unbelievably spectacular. For miles and miles the small roads and big highways are lined with trees dressed in their fall foliage. I particularly liked the narrow roads where the arms of the trees would make a canopy over the highway, their branches barely meeting like Michelangelo’s painting of God creating Adam with just their fingertips barely touching. On this trip, the journey not just the individual stops, is remarkable.

Our inn was a full service inn with swimming pool (I think not), horse back riding, gliders, lounges, and games. I played darts with Dan. At first my darts were hitting everything but the dartboard. In the end, I was a centimeter from two bulls eyes.

Today was unbelievable. The day started cool (not cold) and clear (not sunny). We were in Franconia Notch. I used to think that Norway, and Glacier Park were the most spectacular places I had ever been. The scenery today topped both of those. We went on a short hike along a wide stream cascading over boulders again surrounded by a zillion trees. The fallen leaves were so thick it was like walking on a padded carpet in the forest. I picked up a tree booklet at the inn and started gathering fallen leaves so that I could ID them. The trees include sugar, red, and striped maple; yellow birch and white birch; white ash and American mountain; ash; northern red oak. One of the listings was sumac, which I think is like poison oak/ivy, so I was careful not to pick up any fallen sumac. We continued with a second hike to Franconia gorge, which again was rushing water through beautiful forests.

Finishing out the day, we went on a cog railway up to Mt. Washington, which is known for the worst weather in the U.S. It’s also the highest point on the East Coast at 6880 ft. I renamed the ride the “Polar Express.” It is the oldest cog railway in the U.S.—Dan thinks in the world---very, very rickety. When we started, it was raining lightly. Two thirds of the 40 -minute ride up, we saw patches of snow on the ground, and then a complete white out for a third of the way. It was other- worldly. At the top, the ground was covered with iced snow. I slipped and slid into the visitor’s building at the top. When I found that the bathroom was locked, I slipped and slid back to the train. There was a porta potty outside, but I would have peed in my pants before using it! For those of you who know me well, you know how I tolerate cold---NOT. I had on a long-sleeved shirt, a quilted vest, a jacket to match my pants, a cordoroy jacket, and a lined rain coat—my outfit was finished off with a hat, gloves, and wool scarf. Dan had on a long sleeved shirt and a windbreaker. We were the last train of the day because they cancelled the remaining one due to the weather. I clung to Dan on the way down as the brakeman got off to put anti-freeze on the switches, and the announcement on the two-way radio said, ”be careful coming down.” It was an experience!

Thursday, October 8, 2009

Fall Foliage, Part 1


All the people who told us we were too early for fall foliage were crazy –OK misinformed. Locals have told us that the foliage is particularly spectacular and early this year due to all the rain in the area this summer. We had a glorious ride yesterday from MA to VT. We woke up to rain and wind, but it was almost ethereal---the leaves were gently drifting down from the trees—at first I thought it was snow. It rained off and on most of day, but the rain made the glistening trees even more beautiful.

Our first brief stop was a reform synagogue of about 400 members. We were surprised to find a congregation that size in a small New England town.

Next we visited the Norman Rockwell Museum. Originally I hadn’t wanted to go there thinking Rockwell was too sentimental and trite. Was I wrong! I love his art! Just looking at the Saturday Evening Post magazine covers (the museum displayed one of each) it is impossible to appreciate what a fine artist he was. He painted with incredible detail, humor, warmth, and pathos. One painting shows a young boy (Rockwell’s son) eating in a diner on a train. It is possible to read the comic book visible in his pocket, a ticket stub on the table, and a menu. The only other figure is an older black waiter, who smiles kindly at the young boy. He is definitely not the typical stereotype of a black man. Rockwell searched for the perfect model, which he almost always did, so the figure is a definite individual painted with great care.

The most moving painting for me dealt with Civil Rights and the integration of schools. It depicts a young black girl accompanied by U.S. Marshals (they are visible only from the waist up). In the background is a wall with racial epithets. The portraits of Eisenhower, Lincoln, and Kennedy are superb.

The rest of the day we “oohed and aahed” as we drove through quaint New England towns, scenic back roads, and even scenic highways going from MA to VT. Against the expanse of green lawns (who mows them?) and purple mountains (majesty?) is a patchwork quilt of multi-hued trees in yellows, tawny orange, scarlet reds, and vibrant rusts. On the two lane roads, the branches formed a delicate, graceful canopy over our heads. Dan stopped suddenly so many times to take pictures it’s a miracle we didn’t have an accident. We spent the evening with Dan’s cousin, who lives in the area and the morning with an old friend we met on a cruise many, many years ago. I’m going to spend a whole blog on the people known and unknown we met on this trip.

Tuesday, October 6, 2009

Final Day in NY

Our Final Day

After I chose the title, I realize it sounds like the Apocolypse! Dan says he’ll be happy if he never sets foot in another museum, but I’m disappointed to have missed a number on my list like the Whitney and the American Folk Museum. We’ll just have to plan another trip.

We did finish up with two outstanding museums. First, we visited the Guggenheim, which is celebrating its 50th anniversary with a Kadinsky exhibit. I never really cared for Kadinsky until I saw this exhibit. He was a prolific painter with a wide variety of styles.

I liked his early realistic paintings and his final paintings which were influenced by Miro….very whimsical with a lot of color. Off in a separate section were a number of Impressionists—two incredible Cezanne landscapes. I suggested Dan distract the guard while I put them in my purse, but unfortunately they were too big.

We had seen a lot of Degas at previous museums, but the Guggenheim had one in particular that I loved. The ballerinas’ skirts sparkled. Have you figured out that I’m an art junky?

Our final museum (only because I couldn’t Dan into any more) was the Jewish Museum, which I think houses the best collection of Judaica outside of Israel. The highlight for me was the menorah collection. I own about 13 or more menorahs and have seen countless others, but these were historical and beautiful, each one reflecting the country of origin. An amazing one from Germany was done in silver with many tiers and a clock! A whimsical one consisted of eight souvenir Statues of Liberty with birthday candle holders instead of torches. Four faced one way; four faced another. One interpretation is that America welcomed some immigrants but not others. Who knows?

In the evening we took the subway to Chinatown and Little Italy. After walking by a zillion restaurants, each with a man outside trying to get us to enter, we decided on one after talking to some New Yorkers who were eating there. It was a beautiful evening so we were able to sit outside and had a delicious dinner. I made a good donation to the tzatzke shops: 2 wool scarfs, a hat, and a genuine fake watch.

Additional thoughts on NY: Everyone owns a dog. It is better to own a small dog in NY than a big dog because they have to be walked, and people have to clean up after them. I rather clean up after a small dog…..Also many of the trees have cute little skirts to “protect” them from the dogs.

I know I mentioned how clean the subways are. While they are generally clean, some are cleaner than others. All-in-all, we saw very little litter and graffiti…I think I already mentioned this.

Tuesday

We took off in a very comfortable hybrid rental car and drove along the Hudson to West Point, where we went on an excellent tour. What is most remarkable about WP is its setting—absolutely glorious view of the Hudson River, large green expanse of lawns, beautiful colored trees. Then we headed to Hyde Park, where we toured Roosevelt’s home and library. Dan used his GPS to go from Hyde Park to Greater Barrington, MA. We think the GPS took us the long way on a scenic backroad of charming farms, churches, lakes and, green fields; but it was so beautiful we didn’t care. A number of people had told us we were too early for fall foliage. Fortunately they were wrong. The colors (oranges, reds, yellows, browns, greens are magnificent. Our room at the B & B is large and very comfortable. The owner was wearing a c’hai, hamsa, and Star of David. She said there is a synagogue in Greater Barrington with a membership of 400. Who would have thought it! Dan and I are exhausted so I don’t feel very witty. Goodnight

Monday, October 5, 2009

Playing Tourist

We spent Sunday being typical tourists starting out with brunch at Carnegie Deli--the entertainment value is worth the high cost of the sandwiches. The waitstaff goes to the University of Rudeness and Chutzpah, which is part of the fun. Our waitress was about 80 with palsy, and shuffled along as she served us food. Actually, she was rather pleasant. When I asked another waitress where the restroom was, she replied, "It's right in your face." The portions are ginormous. Dan ate about 1 lb of salami--no kidding. I had blintzes. I asked for a side order but no such luck so I got 3 humongous blintzes. If you've never been there...patrons are seated at tables with other people. The couple next to us were a brother and sister from England. Somehow when I spotted her black spangled beret, I knew she was in show business, which she confirmed--a theatrical agent. It turned out her sister is the female star of Billy Elliot!

It was a magnificent autumn day in the mid 70's so we enjoyed a three hour Circle Line boat tour all around Manhattan. The commentator was excellent combining sightseeing patter with philosophy, and I learned a lot about New York City. He also had a political agenda--if we passed something that he felt needed fixing, he told us which city officials to contact.
We finished the day (not counting dinner) at the top of the Empire State Building. (We had purchased a NY City Pass, which gave us entrance to the Met, MOMA, Guggenheim, Circle Line Tour, Empire State Building, Natural History Museum....well worth it!). Our pass was supposed to zip us past the ticket lines....which it did. However, after that we were in lines a la Disneyland to get our picture taken (mandatory), take the elevator to the 80th floor, take the elevator to the 86th floor, etc. When we got to the 80th, we were advised we could walk up 6 flights or wait 20 minutes for the elevator. Guess what we did.........................we walked with all the teens and twenty-somethings and foreigners. I think Dan and I were the only Americans over forty to make the trek. It was packed at the top, but I patiently waited (elbowed my way) to the edge and pushed people aside) to get the best view. We had free audio guides that were very informative. I thought the best part was the art deco style of the building. Oh, the elevator ride was very smooth. I was prepared to leave remnants of blintzes but didn't even notice we were moving.
Dinner was at a charming neighborhood Italian restaurant near our hotel..cost: $44 compared to the $165 rip off we had with Dan's cousins.

All this took place yesterday. Today was fantastic, but we're getting up early to leave for the fall foliage, which I hear is two weeks away. I'll tell you about today in the next post. Is anyone reading this?

Sunday, October 4, 2009

Impressions of NY

The last time Dan and I were here together--1982--we arrived by train during rush hour. Two scary men grabbed our luggage and took off. Running after them, we ended up at a taxi zone where we had to ransom our luggage. When we arrived at our hotel, a man on a bike zipped by and grabbed our cabbie's money. The hotel was a postage stamp room where we heard gunshots all night long. The next day, Dan was sure I was going to be killed because I never watch where I'm going. "Look up!" he said. I looked up and stepped into a big pile of dog shit (you should excuse the expression) I hated NY!

Now, I love it. The people are amazingly friendly--not at all like the famous stereotypes. They give up their seats on the bus/subway (or maybe I just look old). They are gracious about giving directions. The restaurant and hotel staff are patient and helpful.

Amazingly the city is clean!!!! Very little litter and almost no graffiti, and the subways and buses are immaculate. I'm fascinated by the rats running on the subway rails but actually they're something to watch while we wait for the trains. There is spontaneous (but planned) entertainment on the subway--men playing instruments or singing, kids breakdancing in the narrow aisles, and a gospel choir on the platform.

I expected the food to be expensive but in some cases it's cheaper than what we're used to experiencing(with one exception). Some people visit NY to eat. We're eating to visit NY...We much rather sightsee than spend time or money on gourmet dining. Wherever and whenever we are, we find something to eat.

The one exception was a dinner with Dan's cousins who came all the way from Baltimore to have dinner with us. She and Dan had not seen each other in over 55+ years. Despite the fact that her 12 carat diamond blinded me and that she looked younger than I do, (maybe a face lift??) I liked her immediately. They chose a restaurant that Regis frequents assuring us it wasn't expensive. HA! I had Pelligrino, pasta, sorbet, and coffee. Our portion of the bill was $165. I thought our entire NY, eating experience was going to be as costly..

Nannies: We are on the Upper East Side, a residential area. A new experience for me is seeing all the nannies and their wards. Actually I'm surprised at all the kids on the buses. I think Noah and Leo have only been on school buses and a tour bus when we went to Utah.
Dan tells me I have to get ready--off to do a Circle Line Tour included in a pass we bought.
For those who like, more later.

Saturday, October 3, 2009

Beyond Art

Rather than write chronologically, I'm writing in topics. I knew there were two things I wanted to see in NY: Billy Elliot and Tosca. Billy Elliott is the hottest musical in town--supposedly sold out. I stood in the ticket return line for about 2 hours last night. At 7:55 (show started at 8), we got 2 premium tickets, which normally sell for $296!, for $126. We were third row center! The 10 people before us just got any returned ticket anywhere as did the 3 people behind us. As the box office man said, "we lucked out!!" I LOVED Billy Elliott. I could see it again. It was raining when we left. We grabbed some "to go" pizza slices on our way to the subway.

Today after meeting friends for lunch opposite Lincoln Center (more on that later), I walked up the steps and bought a $160 ticket for $120. The singing in Tosca was amazing. The set was bizarre. The first act was OK with very high grey walls simulating the inside of a cathedral. If you don't know the story, it begins with an artist painting a large picture of Mary Magdalene. In this Tosca, MaryM had a large boob hanging out. The second act takes place in an early 19th pallazio that actually exists in Rome. This looked like gestapo headquarters about 1930. I heard the opening night (which was last week) audience, booed and some walked out.
Anyway--the music was glorious, and now I've been to the Met--cross another item off my bucket list. Tomorrow--impressions of NY.

New York, 2

"A thing of beauty is a joy forever. It's loveliness increases with the years."
I am getting my museum fix in New York. We spent 5+ hours in the Met, and we could have spent more, but our legs gave out. For all of you who have been there, you know what I'm talking about. If you've never been, it is one of the great art museums of the world. Because I love ancient history, in the past I've concentrated on all the ancient cultures; but now that I"m taking an American history art course, a whole new world has opened for me. The Tiffany stained glass is amazing. My favorite is one of a water fountain surrounded by plants. Its iridescence is otherworldly. Of course, we spent hours in the Impressionists. Yesterday we went to the Frick, which is a small gem of a museum in magnificent house originally owned by Mr. Frick. The house itself is worth a visit. I was in awe going from room to room seeing one famous masterpiece after another: Rembrandt, El Greco, Hans Holbein, Vermeer, Whistler.
Later we went to MOMA--modern art: lots and lots of Picassos, Miro, Cezanne, and a bunch of junk: a flourescnt light bulb at an angle, a pile of bricks, a completely black canvas. Yuck
OK--enough art--If you're not an art junky, I'm sure you're bored.

Last night we got into Billy Elliot, the hottest musical on Broadway--also sold-out. We waited in a cancellation line for almost 2 hours, but it was worth it. It was fun people watching and talking to the other crazies in line. We lucked out big time. At 7:55, they released the premium seats, which sell for almost $300. We got third row center for the price of regular tickets $126. It was fabulous!!!!

I have all kinds of observations on NY, but we're off to Lincoln Center....

Thursday, October 1, 2009

New York, Dan 1

New York, Fall, 2009

Sept 30

“New York! New York! It’s a wonderful town! The Bronx is up. and the Battery’s down.” We’re so far uptown I think we’re in Maine!

Actually the Courtyard by Marriett is perfect—not a huge room but very comfortable, clean, quiet with all the amenities—it’s just a schlep into the heart of the action. As many of you know, the price is right—we got it for free so I can’t complain.

Yesterday, we took the subway (standing room only, and I think I had an intimate encounter with a stranger!) to Grand Central Station, which is a hub of activity, stores, restaurants, and people.

We ate breakfast at a small place across the street while waiting for the train. For under $6, I had lox, eggs, toast, and tea! Our adventure took us to Tarrytown, maybe 35-40 minutes away along the Hudson. Our very good friends, the Goulds from San Jose, were visiting their kids and grandkids. After meeting us at the station, we walked around the charming downtown and had lunch and then headed to Kykuit, which housed 4 generations of Rockerfellers. We picked up our tickets in Sleepy Hollow (of the Headless Horseman fame). The ticket/gift shop was on a small, beautiful lake across the bridge from an early seventeenth century house. A van took about 20 of us up to the top of the hill (Kykuit means something like “top of the hill” on a scenic, wooded drive.

The house is classic revival style, furnished with a lot of Chinese art. The extensive grounds contain many interesting modern statues. Our tour guide was excellent giving us just the right amount of information. The first Rockerfeller to occupy the house was a self-made man and an ardent Baptist. His idea of fun included organ concerts (he had an organ in his house) and enjoying the outdoors. His son was a disappointment to him because he was an intellectual art lover not interested in the business. He and succeeding generation amassed an incredible art collection. The lower floor is literally an art gallery with many Picassos. Included were about 5-6 Picasso tapestries, which I never knew existed. The grounds and views are stunning—all of it manmade overlooking the Hudson River. Dan would have liked to have played the golf course on the property!

We drove around the area, which is charming and went on a majestic walk beneath tall trees along a lake. We even met 3 Bambies, who were not at all spooked by humans.

Today we spent our entire time in the Met with 2 good friends, one from North Carolina and one from George—but I’ll have to write about that tomorrow as we’re meeting Dan’s cousins for dinner.