Saturday, October 3, 2009
New York, 2
Thursday, October 1, 2009
New York, Dan 1
New York, Fall, 2009
Sept 30
“New York! New York! It’s a wonderful town! The Bronx is up. and the Battery’s down.” We’re so far uptown I think we’re in Maine!
Actually the Courtyard by Marriett is perfect—not a huge room but very comfortable, clean, quiet with all the amenities—it’s just a schlep into the heart of the action. As many of you know, the price is right—we got it for free so I can’t complain.
Yesterday, we took the subway (standing room only, and I think I had an intimate encounter with a stranger!) to Grand Central Station, which is a hub of activity, stores, restaurants, and people.
We ate breakfast at a small place across the street while waiting for the train. For under $6, I had lox, eggs, toast, and tea! Our adventure took us to Tarrytown, maybe 35-40 minutes away along the Hudson. Our very good friends, the Goulds from San Jose, were visiting their kids and grandkids. After meeting us at the station, we walked around the charming downtown and had lunch and then headed to Kykuit, which housed 4 generations of Rockerfellers. We picked up our tickets in Sleepy Hollow (of the Headless Horseman fame). The ticket/gift shop was on a small, beautiful lake across the bridge from an early seventeenth century house. A van took about 20 of us up to the top of the hill (Kykuit means something like “top of the hill” on a scenic, wooded drive.
The house is classic revival style, furnished with a lot of Chinese art. The extensive grounds contain many interesting modern statues. Our tour guide was excellent giving us just the right amount of information. The first Rockerfeller to occupy the house was a self-made man and an ardent Baptist. His idea of fun included organ concerts (he had an organ in his house) and enjoying the outdoors. His son was a disappointment to him because he was an intellectual art lover not interested in the business. He and succeeding generation amassed an incredible art collection. The lower floor is literally an art gallery with many Picassos. Included were about 5-6 Picasso tapestries, which I never knew existed. The grounds and views are stunning—all of it manmade overlooking the Hudson River. Dan would have liked to have played the golf course on the property!
We drove around the area, which is charming and went on a majestic walk beneath tall trees along a lake. We even met 3 Bambies, who were not at all spooked by humans.
Today we spent our entire time in the Met with 2 good friends, one from North Carolina and one from George—but I’ll have to write about that tomorrow as we’re meeting Dan’s cousins for dinner.
Saturday, July 18, 2009
One more comment
Cappadocia, Part 3 and sign off
Goreme, Cappadocia, part 3
We went to the Goreme Outdoor Museum today, the fifth most visited place in Turkey. It consists of a series of monasteries, dating from the 11th and 12th century, each one very close to the next. These were constructed in the large tufa, the strange volcanic triangle formations that are famous in Cappadocia. By the way, Cappadocia is an area; Goreme is a small town in Cappadocia, and we are staying at the Kelebek Hotel, which I love. It has a great website—check it out. The monasteries are not like any churches we’ve ever seen. They are carved out of stone and have very primitive frescos on the walls. The sad part is that many of the faces have been scratched out. Turkey is the holiest site for Christians outside of the Vatican and Israel. In the fourth century Constantine made Christianity the official language of the Roman Empire. Byzantine was the capital; after Constantine’s death, the name was changed to Constantinople. When the Turks came, it became Istanbul. It was Constantine’s mother who went to what is today Israel to identify the holy sites: here is where Jesus had the last supper, here is where he was born, etc. The Christian church here is, of course, the Eastern Orthodox. Our guide yesterday repeatedly pointed out how tolerant Turkey has always been, given refuge to persecuted people.
They did accept the Jews when Spain kicked them out after the Inquisition and seem tolerant of them today.
Turkish Bath: The Kelebek Hotel has the BEST spa. I indulged in a Turkish massage today. It costs $70 for 70 mins, but really lasted 1 hr and 45 mins. If you go to the Kelebek website, you can see the room. In the middle is a large, heated marble slab—maybe 10-12 ft in diameter with a butterfly design in the middle (Kelebek means butterfly) and a skylight overhead. I was given a small Turkish towel for cover. This is a coed room, and I was grateful that I was the only one there because the towel slips a lot! The therapist was a teeny, tiny Japanese young woman. Next to her, I looked like Jaba the Hut. First she poured large bowls of hot water all over me. Then she used a loofa to scrub me, covered me with soapy water using a pillow full of the bubble bath., and gave me a massage. I thought it was all over, but wait—there’s more! She took me to a cool down room and then to a private massage room, where I got another great massage. Finally I got a facial mask. Sublime
Observation: You have to be very healthy and fit to travel in Turkey. This is not a place for sissies or anyone with a handicap. There is no ADA here. There are no warnings about how steep or how slippery a trail may be , how low a ceiling is, or how narrow a passageway. There are no waivers to sign. Everything seems to involve climbing a lot of stairs. I’m glad Dan and I did this while we’re still reasonably fit!
Turkish language: Evidently the Turkish language is related to Japanese, Korean, and Finnish!!! Two guides shared this info with us. I don’t know if it can be validated on Snopes.
As soon as I edit my pictures, put them to music and add captions, I will invite anyone who has received this blog to come see the DVD.
Signing off…(unless something really interesting happens in the next 24 hrs)
Shirley
Friday, July 17, 2009
Capadoccia, Part 2
It’s a good thing our trip is coming to an end because I’m running out of superlatives and didn’t bring my Thesaurus.
We went on another tour yesterday. Tours seem to be the best way to see the area. A van holding up to 15 picks us up at our hotel, drives us from spot to spot, waits for us. The price of 30 euros per person includes all entrance fees, a guided tour, and lunch. On our van yesterday there were 7 of us: 2 French Canadians, 2 young girls from CA, and 1 Japanese young woman. We started off at a winery—there are many vineyards in the area and wine making is a big deal. According to our guide, wine making began in this region 6,000 years ago. We tasted a glass of red and a glass of white—both very dry, which is what I prefer. No one bought wine, and there was no pressure to do so.
On our next stop we visited the deepest of the underground dwellings—it goes down 8 layers, but tourists are only allowed to go down 4. These dwelling were probably first built by the Hittites, but then the earliest Christians used them to hide from invaders. The ventilation system was such that they were able to dissipate the smoke from fires so it wouldn’t be seen. It’s not an easy task to visit the caves because you’re either bending in half to navigate the low tunnels or you’re climbing up or down steep areas.
Lunch was in a new, very large, stone building with arches and separate eating areas around a common central area where a musician was playing. We had lentil soup, followed by white beans in a liquid—very soup like, too, then a dish baked in a clay pot with chicken, meat, and vegetables. The very surprising thing about the Turkish cooking we’ve had is that it is all very bland.
After lunch, we visited a pottery making site, owned and run by the same family for generations. We watched a young man “throw” a pot and lid on a rather primitive wheel. It was fascinating to watch the artists design and paint the pots. Some pots were in ochre, tan, orange, red, and black with Hittite designs. Others had Byzantine, Moorish, or Ottoman designs. Again there was no pressure to buy. The garden outside the building was beautiful with a zillion zinnias. (Please appreciate the alliteration!)
We next visited 3 sites with fascinating tufa formations. One site had tufas that looked like various animals: camels, lizard, fish. The best site had a monastery with a fresco inside built in one of the tufas. In order to reach it, it was necessary to climb a steep ladder—easy going up, but not so easy going down. Chicken Dan didn’t climb up but stayed down to take a very unflattering picture of my butt as I came down.
The end of the day was the best—another absolutely fantastic hike!
When we go on Elderhostel trips, they have pictographs to indicate the level of difficulty of the activities. On the ship, the brochures would have 1-3 little pictures of a man walking to indicate how strenuous a tour was going to be. In Turkey, you take your chances!! The host at our hotel said it would be a 30 minute walk—well 2 hours later, we reached our van, but it was so worth it!! We were in the Rose Valley, which had been impassable for 5 previous days because of rain. We were able to navigate the path(?) but it was still slippery. I put a question mark after path, because for a lot of the trail there wasn’t one. At the beginning of the trail, we scrambled down, a steep, narrow, rocky gravely path. We straddled rivulets of running water, maneuvered over rocks. At the bottom was a picturesque valley with orchards of grape vines, apricot, walnut, and cherry trees. Our guide climbed up the trees to pick fresh fruit for us.
About 2/3 of the way in, was a “pit stop”. A large rectangular area with one side against a large rock wall and 3 sides open. Poles held up a covering for shelter. Around the rectangle were seats on the ground with cushions and pillows. A man served tea and soft drinks. The 8 of us—an interesting group of 3 Christians, 1 Muslim, 1 Hindu, 1 Buddist, and 2 Jews-- sat around talking—particularly about the Kurds and Armenians. Again, Dan and I were the oldest in the group by about 30 years.
This AM, we got up at 4:45 and went up in a hot air balloon. I’ve been hot air ballooning twice before and love it! We glided over agricultural valleys,
through the tufa, and saw breathtaking panoramas of the area. The weather hadbeen poor for about a week, but today was absolutely perfect!!!
Dan and I are currently outside, on a raised platform with cushions and pillows overlooking the outside eating area. Dan is currently snoring…
Stay tuned for my last blog.
Thursday, July 16, 2009
Goreme, Cappadocia--Fabulous!!!
Goreme, Cappadocia rain! Cool!
This trip gets better and better. We are in an unbelievable hotel in an unbelievable fairyland. The hotel has many levels with terraces
each with a phenomenal view of “fairy castles,” which are volcanic tufa. I’m sitting on a raised pillow area, drinking Turkish tea looking out on the lighted tufa.
Our room is quite large with a separate sitting area and a small balcony—again with a view. It entitles us access to a Turkish bath (hamman) and spa. I was even able to talk Dan into trying it. We wrapped ourselves in Turkish towels (it’s coed), went in the sauna and then sat on marble with a large basin with hot and cold running water between us. We had silver colored bowel that we used to dip the water and pour over us—it was amazingly refreshing. A couple we’ve met were on a very large, heated marble stand getting Turkish massages. I may have to indulge before I leave.
We went on a remarkable tour today in a van with 13 other people: 3 from Australia, 4 from Spain, 4 from London, 4 from US. This area is known for multi-level underground dwellings; we visited a small one probably started by the Phillistines. The early Christians, who were persecuted, hid in them for months. To get to one part, we had to go down a hole backwards. Tomorrow we’re going to see a larger one.
It had been raining, but the weather cleared, and we went on the best hike ever. It was over 4 miles along a rushing river in a canyon. We had to scramble over rocks, hike up a few steep hills, and walk where there was no trail. The wildflowers—white, yellow, and blue daisies, red poppies, white and lavender unknowns—were in bloom everywhere. High up in the canyons were monasteries carved into stone. Dan and I were the oldest people by far—our guide was 24—most of the other couples were in their 30’s and 40’s, and there was a 12 year old girl. I have to brag that we kept up with everyone. I did get help from an adorable young man from Barcelona. I was able to practice my Spanish with him while we walked. At the end of the hike, we had lunch in an outdoor restaurant: lentil soup, salad, and a choice of entrees. Dan and I had small pieces of chicken cooked with peppers, onions, and tomatoes served with rice. Delicious.
We drove a short distance to a huge caravan stop along the Silk Road. again built in the rock. We walked up a steep, rock-filled trail (I thought we were done with hiking!)through narrow passage ways. At one point there was space only to put one foot in front of the other. The people of the caravans could stay for free for 3 nights. Somehow they even housed their camels and donkeys.
Tomorrow, we’re going on another guided tour. If it’s anything like today, it will be wonderful. The day after we’re going up in a hot air balloon.
When we disembarked the ship in Istanbul, I thought perhaps we had made a mistake adding on 8 days in Turkey. No way!!! This has been a fantastic experience!
Wednesday, July 15, 2009
Pamukkale--A find
Pamukkale 80’s
Wow! It was worth the schlep to get to Pamukkale….definitely a highlight of our trip. I can understand why it’s a World Heritage Sight. Surprisingly,
we only heard American English spoken once-- when we met a couple at our hotel from New York—he’s an Italian citizen; she’s from Columbia, raised in a very Jewish section of NY—she used to fast on Yom Kippur—and she’s Catholic! I don’t think they get many Americans here. I’m going to become the unofficial ambassador because it’s not to be missed on any tour of Turkey.
The experience here was fascinating on three levels:
First it is another collection of ruins but with a difference: Dan and I thought we had OD’d on ruins, but we both loved these. They are spread out over a large area and were practically empty. We were the only people strolling the ancient main street. There are many sarcophagi and necropoli throughout. My favorite ruin was the bath/basilica. Originally it had been a bath; when Christianity arrived, they built a basilica over it. Dan got excited when he read there was a nymphaeumu, but it turned out to be a temple in honor of the Greek nymphs. What also made these ruins different was that the entire area is beautifully landscaped with raised flower beds of multi-colored flowers and oleander and olive trees kept immaculate by the many gardeners we saw.
Second. We got to swim in the “sacred” pools, which consist of ancient pools of fresh, circulating mineral water at body temperature that is supposed to cure “diseases of eye, derma, hearth and blood circulatory system, respiratory and urinary system weariness and post opereation diseases.” (errors are from brochure) Supposedly as Cleopatra was aging, she sent out envoys to find a cure for her wrinkles. They found the pools at Pamukkale, and voila—Cleopatra had an ancient facelift. As we were entering the pool, we suddenly realized that we were walking over the remains of ancient columns. At first I thought it was a Disneyland gimmick—someone had placed the columns and other remains on purpose for the effect—but I found out that the ruins remained where they had fallen after 2 devastating earthquakes in the earliest years of the common era.
Many of the people at the pools that day were Ukranian and/or Russian. We found out in St. Petersburg that the Russian women pose like movie stars for photographs so I followed their example. Dan took many pictures of girls in string bikinis, but when I downloaded them on my computer, I went “delete, delete.” I posed next to a 300 lb woman because she made me look skinny.
The third—and the best—is difficult to describe. In a mountainside of white travertine marble, are about 20 small to medium pools of turquoise mineral water cascading from the top to the bottom of the mountain. The deepest pools only came up to the middle of my calf, most are ankle deep. Along the pools runs a culvert of rushing water. I was like a kid—going in every pool on my way down and sitting in the culverts—the only adult to do so. I felt very smug because I wore a pair of waterproof shoes with great soles. Otherwise, the walk was hard on the feet. I found out later, that wearing shoes in the pools is forbidden, but I was lucky not to get caught by the “shoe Nazis”.
It was an amazing experience!
Pamekkale is in a beautiful valley surrounded by mountains. Despite the brothel decoration in our room (see previous e-mail), the hotel was charming with a stone patio with tables covered with colorful multi-colored Turkish tablecloths. We had a great homemade dinner, cooked by the owner’s auntie, served on the patio.
I think I could get a job in Turkey rewriting the tourist info in correct English. To give you one example of many, here are the first sentences just as they are written in a brochure on the area
“Hierapolis antique city is one of the most attractive centers reached today from antique ages. The city have ruins belonged to Late and Early Helenistic periods. Hierapolis toot place in UNESCO World Heritage Site.”
For those of you who knew my Aunt Pearl, she’d have a field day with this!
Comment on air travel in Turkey: Even the tiny airports we have been in are clean, modern, and very efficient. I didn’t have to take off my shoes, and they let me carry my water bottles thru security. On the 3 flights we’ve taken (each one no longer than around an hour), they served a meal. Granted it was the same for breakfast, lunch and dinner: seeded roll with mozzarella cheese and tomato and chocolate pudding.” The seats are wide and comfy with good legroom. On the flight to Keyseri, there was a tour of people all dressed very traditionally. Dan’s seat was next to one of the women. She changed with one of the men in her party. It was either something he said, his need to bathe, or a cultural concern.We are in Cappadoccia, which is unreal, but Ill save that for my next blog.
Pamukkale 80’s
Wow! It was worth the schlep to get to Pamukkale….definitely a highlight of our trip. I can understand why it’s a World Heritage Sight. Surprisingly,
we only heard American English spoken once-- when we met a couple at our hotel from New York—he’s an Italian citizen; she’s from Columbia, raised in a very Jewish section of NY—she used to fast on Yom Kippur—and she’s Catholic! I don’t think they get many Americans here. I’m going to become the unofficial ambassador because it’s not to be missed on any tour of Turkey.
The experience here was fascinating on three levels:
First it is another collection of ruins but with a difference: Dan and I thought we had OD’d on ruins, but we both loved these. They are spread out over a large area and were practically empty. We were the only people strolling the ancient main street. There are many sarcophagi and necropoli throughout. My favorite ruin was the bath/basilica. Originally it had been a bath; when Christianity arrived, they built a basilica over it. Dan got excited when he read there was a nymphaeumu, but it turned out to be a temple in honor of the Greek nymphs. What also made these ruins different was that the entire area is beautifully landscaped with raised flower beds of multi-colored flowers and oleander and olive trees kept immaculate by the many gardeners we saw.
Second. We got to swim in the “sacred” pools, which consist of ancient pools of fresh, circulating mineral water at body temperature that is supposed to cure “diseases of eye, derma, hearth and blood circulatory system, respiratory and urinary system weariness and post opereation diseases.” (errors are from brochure) Supposedly as Cleopatra was aging, she sent out envoys to find a cure for her wrinkles. They found the pools at Pamukkale, and voila—Cleopatra had an ancient facelift. As we were entering the pool, we suddenly realized that we were walking over the remains of ancient columns. At first I thought it was a Disneyland gimmick—someone had placed the columns and other remains on purpose for the effect—but I found out that the ruins remained where they had fallen after 2 devastating earthquakes in the earliest years of the common era.
Many of the people at the pools that day were Ukranian and/or Russian. We found out in St. Petersburg that the Russian women pose like movie stars for photographs so I followed their example. Dan took many pictures of girls in string bikinis, but when I downloaded them on my computer, I went “delete, delete.” I posed next to a 300 lb woman because she made me look skinny.
The third—and the best—is difficult to describe. In a mountainside of white travertine marble, are about 20 small to medium pools of turquoise mineral water cascading from the top to the bottom of the mountain. The deepest pools only came up to the middle of my calf, most are ankle deep. Along the pools runs a culvert of rushing water. I was like a kid—going in every pool on my way down and sitting in the culverts—the only adult to do so. I felt very smug because I wore a pair of waterproof shoes with great soles. Otherwise, the walk was hard on the feet. I found out later, that wearing shoes in the pools is forbidden, but I was lucky not to get caught by the “shoe Nazis”.
It was an amazing experience!
Pamekkale is in a beautiful valley surrounded by mountains. Despite the brothel decoration in our room (see previous e-mail), the hotel was charming with a stone patio with tables covered with colorful multi-colored Turkish tablecloths. We had a great homemade dinner, cooked by the owner’s auntie, served on the patio.
I think I could get a job in Turkey rewriting the tourist info in correct English. To give you one example of many, here are the first sentences just as they are written in a brochure on the area
“Hierapolis antique city is one of the most attractive centers reached today from antique ages. The city have ruins belonged to Late and Early Helenistic periods. Hierapolis toot place in UNESCO World Heritage Site.”
For those of you who knew my Aunt Pearl, she’d have a field day with this!
Comment on air travel in Turkey: Even the tiny airports we have been in are clean, modern, and very efficient. I didn’t have to take off my shoes, and they let me carry my water bottles thru security. On the 3 flights we’ve taken (each one no longer than around an hour), they served a meal. Granted it was the same for breakfast, lunch and dinner: seeded roll with mozzarella cheese and tomato and chocolate pudding.” The seats are wide and comfy with good legroom. On the flight to Keyseri, there was a tour of people all dressed very traditionally. Dan’s seat was next to one of the women. She changed with one of the men in her party. It was either something he said, his need to bathe, or a cultural concern.We are in Cappadoccia, which is unreal, but Ill save that for my next blog.
Wow! It was worth the schlep to get to Pamukkale….definitely a highlight of our trip. I can understand why it’s a World Heritage Sight. Surprisingly,
we only heard American English spoken once-- when we met a couple at our hotel from New York—he’s an Italian citizen; she’s from Columbia, raised in a very Jewish section of NY—she used to fast on Yom Kippur—and she’s Catholic! I don’t think they get many Americans here. I’m going to become the unofficial ambassador because it’s not to be missed on any tour of Turkey.
The experience here was fascinating on three levels:
First it is another collection of ruins but with a difference: Dan and I thought we had OD’d on ruins, but we both loved these. They are spread out over a large area and were practically empty. We were the only people strolling the ancient main street. There are many sarcophagi and necropoli throughout. My favorite ruin was the bath/basilica. Originally it had been a bath; when Christianity arrived, they built a basilica over it. Dan got excited when he read there was a nymphaeumu, but it turned out to be a temple in honor of the Greek nymphs. What also made these ruins different was that the entire area is beautifully landscaped with raised flower beds of multi-colored flowers and oleander and olive trees kept immaculate by the many gardeners we saw.
Second. We got to swim in the “sacred” pools, which consist of ancient pools of fresh, circulating mineral water at body temperature that is supposed to cure “diseases of eye, derma, hearth and blood circulatory system, respiratory and urinary system weariness and post opereation diseases.” (errors are from brochure) Supposedly as Cleopatra was aging, she sent out envoys to find a cure for her wrinkles. They found the pools at Pamukkale, and voila—Cleopatra had an ancient facelift. As we were entering the pool, we suddenly realized that we were walking over the remains of ancient columns. At first I thought it was a Disneyland gimmick—someone had placed the columns and other remains on purpose for the effect—but I found out that the ruins remained where they had fallen after 2 devastating earthquakes in the earliest years of the common era.
Many of the people at the pools that day were Ukranian and/or Russian. We found out in St. Petersburg that the Russian women pose like movie stars for photographs so I followed their example. Dan took many pictures of girls in string bikinis, but when I downloaded them on my computer, I went “delete, delete.” I posed next to a 300 lb woman because she made me look skinny.
The third—and the best—is difficult to describe. In a mountainside of white travertine marble, are about 20 small to medium pools of turquoise mineral water cascading from the top to the bottom of the mountain. The deepest pools only came up to the middle of my calf, most are ankle deep. Along the pools runs a culvert of rushing water. I was like a kid—going in every pool on my way down and sitting in the culverts—the only adult to do so. I felt very smug because I wore a pair of waterproof shoes with great soles. Otherwise, the walk was hard on the feet. I found out later, that wearing shoes in the pools is forbidden, but I was lucky not to get caught by the “shoe Nazis”.
It was an amazing experience!
Pamekkale is in a beautiful valley surrounded by mountains. Despite the brothel decoration in our room (see previous e-mail), the hotel was charming with a stone patio with tables covered with colorful multi-colored Turkish tablecloths. We had a great homemade dinner, cooked by the owner’s auntie, served on the patio.
I think I could get a job in Turkey rewriting the tourist info in correct English. To give you one example of many, here are the first sentences just as they are written in a brochure on the area
“Hierapolis antique city is one of the most attractive centers reached today from antique ages. The city have ruins belonged to Late and Early Helenistic periods. Hierapolis toot place in UNESCO World Heritage Site.”
For those of you who knew my Aunt Pearl, she’d have a field day with this!
Comment on air travel in Turkey: Even the tiny airports we have been in are clean, modern, and very efficient. I didn’t have to take off my shoes, and they let me carry my water bottles thru security. On the 3 flights we’ve taken (each one no longer than around an hour), they served a meal. Granted it was the same for breakfast, lunch and dinner: seeded roll with mozzarella cheese and tomato and chocolate pudding.” The seats are wide and comfy with good legroom. On the flight to Keyseri, there was a tour of people all dressed very traditionally. Dan’s seat was next to one of the women. She changed with one of the men in her party. It was either something he said, his need to bathe, or a cultural concern.We are in Cappadoccia, which is unreal, but Ill save that for my next blog.