Ireland, Blog 5
The Gospel according to Saint Rick Steves is our bible in Ireland. We have used him before in our travels; he is concise and accurate. When he notes an attraction as 3***, it IS a 3*** attraction.
Yesterday the Valley of the Boyne was at least a 3*** attraction.
A short ride north of Dublin (about 50 minutes for us) is one of the most historic areas of Ireland. Bru na Boinne, “dwelling place of the Boyne,” also known as Newgrange, is a burial mound. Dating from 3200 BCE, it’s 500 years older than the pyramids. Very little is known, but it was evidently a sacred spot with some kind of sun god. Access is by guided tour only. Located under a 20 ft high igloo shaped dome, bones and ashes were placed under 200,000 tons of stone, which were transported from many miles away probably by river and log rollers. As the sun rose on the Winter Solstice, light crept down a 60 ft passageway and remained for 17 minutes. The guide simulated the effect by turning off the light. Along the walls of the passageway, are prehistoric abstract and geometric paintings. The passageway is very low and very narrow, and I was sure that the man ahead of me, in Ireland
to be part of a heavy weight lifting competition, was going to get stuck. When we emerged, the previously sunny day had changed to showers, which completely annoyed the sheep, cows, and goats in the area. In one voice, they let forth their displeasure with a cacophony of bleats, moos, and baas. When the rain stopped so did their chorus.
Visitors are not allowed to enter the second burial mound at the second site Knouth (rhymes with south), but it is equally fascinating. Much larger in area, it consists of one huge mound, completely encircled with huge decorated boulders, and smaller satellite mounds. We were allowed to climb to the top for a magnificent view of verdant valleys and the river Boyne. In front of the opening is a large phallic stone rough on three sides and completely smooth on the back. It is believed that the smoothness was caused because ancient man rubbed the back to increase their virility. Dan went back a couple of times to make sure he rubbed it correctly!
From there we went to the most famous battle site in Ireland, where the Battle of the Boyne took place in 1690 when William of Orange (Protestant) defeated his uncle/father-in-law James 2 (Catholic). Like many battlefields we’ve visited today it is a lovely expanse of rolling green hills dotted with trees. We lucked out because we visited on a Sunday when they have costumed characters and we made the 3 PM demonstrations of lances and muskets from 1620. Excellent.
Finally, we drove 40 minutes into the thirteenth century to visit the largest Norman castle in Ireland. Once again, Dan and I have visited about a zillion, billion castles in England, Scotland, and Wales, but this one was Irish and wonderful. It exists in a state of ruin with the only modern additions being stairs and handrails. Braveheart was filmed here, and the guide showed us where Mel Gibson was disembowled. I ungenerously said (under my breath) that it was too bad it was a simulation. My favorite castle story (WARNING: GROSS MATERIAL AHEAD) told of the guardroom (toilet) in the lord’s quarters that went many floors below to a cesspool, where a servant had the unique job of keeping it stirred up. Evidently the lord/lady hung their clothes above it because the ammonia fumes killed the lice and fleas!
Off to dinner. Will try to blog about today later. We are leaving this magnificent part of Ireland tomorrow. I don’t know what the internet situation will be, so please send any comments you want now. I love getting them so that I know someone is out there (my 4 devoted fans)
Love reading your blogs! You are the most entertaining and informative writer (you could write travel books and compete with the best). Yes, I am a devoted fan. We'll hear your stories in person in July!!
ReplyDelete:-)
Stef