river cursing part 1

River Cruising, Part 1

I never imagined how beautiful the scenery on the Danube could be-- at least north of Vienna.  From Budapest to Vienna, it is ho hum.   Plus the Danube is not “beautiful, blue.”  It’s more like muddy, army green.  But along the sides of the river going from Vienna into Germany (we’re not there yet) the views are magnificent!!!   The trees are in all their glory in fall foliage.  Vineyards, at least 20 rows at times, are terraced  high up into the hills, and the trees and vines are shades of yellow-green, gold, and rust with an occasional burst of red.  The hills are not terribly high so the densely packed trees are silhouetted all the way to the sky.  The buildings are out of Hansel and Gretel; each town has its charming church and on the hillsides stand the remains of  medieval castles.  I am lying on my bed in my cabin with the curtains wide open enjoying all this beauty.

I could get used to river travel.  It is far easier than the forced march in Italy this summer (don’t get me wrong, I loved the trip!).  It is better than schlepping from hotel to hotel with all our luggage.  In a way, for me it even beats ocean cruising since I have a tendency to get sea sick.  The The boat has 4 levels.  Our room is in the center of the third. If I walk one minute I’m at the reception desk and the door onto the dock.  Immediately next to that is the dining room with wall-to-wall windows, comfortable seating, and attentive waiters. The very cordial staff is primarily Hungarian and Rumanian and quite charming. 

 There are no big gangplanks, tenders to town, or lines waiting to disembark. The busses are right outside the door.  On the fourth floor is a large, lounge with plenty of seating where lectures are held and a pianist plays every evening.  Up front is a cozy reading room where they also serve light lunches.  Up the stairs and outside of the fourth floor is a walking/running track, seating, and the captain’s wheelhouse.  I haven’t been down to the third floor, but I hear there are more passenger rooms and a small workout room.

The only negative as I’ve mentioned is that the majority of passengers are older than we are.  I’m sure there are a few in their late 60’s, early 70’s, but unless these people are younger than they look, not many.  On the other hand, they are educated, well-traveled, and have interesting stories to share.  The problem is that some tell these stories over and over again.  Dan and I enjoy all ages so it’s not a problem.  However, Dan and I are brisk walkers.   On one of our tours of Vienna, a gentleman had to tell the guide to slow down, just as I was ready to shout, “please speed up!”  Grant, my son-in-law, who walks at my running pace would go crazy!

I have to learn not to prejudge people.  Last night we met a couple from Kansas.  She had on a dowdy flower printed dress.  Her husband had on cowboy boots, a shirt buttoned all the way up to his neck.  He needed a bola tie to make his outfit complete.  I thought, “What hicks from Kansas!”  It turns out he personally worked for years with Werner Von Braun on America’s earliest missles and sattelites and the first space shuttle! 

Today we docked at the town of Dürnstein, a quaint village in an apricot and wine growing  region.  We walked past vineyards to get to the cobbled center of town, mainly devoid of tourists.  After a short, guided walking tour, we had the option of hiking to the top of a “mountain” to the ruins of the castle where Richard the Lionhearted had been imprisoned during the Crusades.  Of course, Dan and I took advantage of the option.  I’m not sure how far up it was, but it took us about 90 minutes to go up and back as it was a steep climb.  Along the way, were signs and pictures telling the story of Richard, his brother, John Lackland, and Robin Hood.  The view at the top was worth the climb , and among the ruins of the castle we saw the cell where Richard was imprisoned until an enormous ransom was paid for his freedom.  Now remember how I complained about the slow pace of my elders?? (rhetorical question)  When we got to the top, we saw one of the ladies we had met at dinner.  She was married in 1943, the year I turned one!!!  Believe me, she was the exception.

This afternoon we had a moment- to -moment lecture as we sailed through the Wachau Valley.  One disappointment:  we were supposed to go to an organ concert in a small town tonight, but the church is being renovated.  As compensation, they are giving us free wine at dinner, which is no compensation for me.