Buenos Aires, Blog 8

Buenos Aires, Blog 8

We arrived in Buenos Aires a few hours after the new pope was announced—very exciting!  Buenos Aires is a beautiful city bustling with activity.  After 4 days here (I’m delayed in writing this), Dan announced that he liked it better than San Francisco!   Buenos Aires and its surrounding suburbs have a population of about 12-13 million.  It is often called the “Paris of the South,” and in some parts it does actually remind me of Paris particularly its very wide boulevards.  It is a city of many v beautiful and diverse trees.

The women of Buenos Aires are very appearance conscience.  Consequently there is a high percentage of eating disorders, cosmetic surgery, and purchase of cosmetics.  Argentina has a woman president, and our local guide just called her “Cristina.”

She told us that the locals call her President Botox because she is also very conscious about her appearance.  Although she is supposed to be a socialist, she commutes to work in a helicopter and talks about her brand name clothes.  We passed a sign that said “Ella or ustedes,” a political sign meaning “she or you”.  Our guide was pretty open about her disdain for the president

 On our first morning we drove to the Plaza de Mayo, the political and historic center of BA and saw the balcony from which Madonna (Evita) spoke to the people.  The building is called “La Casa Rosa” or “pink house” or Barbie House because it’s quite pink with pink lights at night. On the same squarer is the Cathedral of Buenos Aires built in 1745. The remains of San Martin, the liberator of Argentina, are inside with a guard of honor. . Surrounding the plaza were dozens of television cameras and many press people.  I thought it would be impossible to get into the cathedral, pero no problema.  It was a beautiful building.  The people of Buenos Aires LOVE the new pope.  Everyone talks about what a humble, caring man he is and that he will slowly but definitely make changes.  Quien sabe?  I am having a difficult time following Argentinian history and politics.  During one politically disturbing time, children and pregnant women were kidnapped and disappeared forever. A group of abuelas (grandmothers) for years protested the loss of their daughters and grandchildren.  Their symbol is white headscarves, which are painted on the square.  I’m not sure WHY they were kidnapped, and I’m having trouble finding the information on the internet.

Next we went to San Telmo, the oldest party of the city, which once housed the elite but now where the poorest live.  However, the area is going under restoration.  I predict that in a few years it will be the “in” place.  It has wonderful professional street art and a triangular area where artists display their work. (We made a donation).  The buildings are vibrant colors of corrugated metal. Supposedly this is where tango originated—in the brothels while the men that were waiting their turns for the limited number of prostitutes.   

In contrast we drove through La Boca, the old port, where single young professionals live.  Lunch was in a famous landmark, Café Tortoni, the oldest restaurant in BA.  It reminded me of Townsends in San Francisco if any of you remember that.  Most people went back to the hotel, but Dan and I hopped off the tour bus on the widest avenue in the world, We barely managed to escape with our lives during the crossing. 

Nearby was one of the ninety synagogues in the city.  After tight security, we joined a family from Connecticut and toured with an English speaking guide through the museum and synagogue La Congregacion Israelita . The Jewish population of Argentina is 250,000 (most in B.A) making it the sixth largest Jewish population in the world. Our guide said there were 90 synagogues in the city—a huge #.    The history of the Jews in Argentina is very interesting (Jewish gauchos!)  but rather than take up the space in my blog I’ll refer you to a good website :  http://wander-argentina.com/jewish-argentina  if you’re interested.  Confession time:  Although I pride myself on being a good traveler (trying to speak the language, observing the customs, being a good sport about cultural differences) I was a bit of an ugly American.  Although we could take pictures of the inside of the synagogue, when we went to leave Dan told me to stand in front of the synagogue so that he could take my picture.  The young man outside said it was forbidden.  We  thought he was joking because no matter where we’ve been, we’ve been able to take pics of the outside of the synagogue.  Evidently he was not.  When we turned a corner, I snuck a picture of the façade with my I-pad.  He came running after me yelling, “Lady, erase your I-Pad!”  I did  so without comment.  Dan was very upset with me, and I was upset with myself although I think it is a silly rule.  There are many pictures of the building on the internet.  Also it is across the street from a large park.  If I were a terrorist, I would easily have sneaked a pic.  Am I rationalizing?  Yes!

We had a great dinner in a nearby Italian restaurant that night.  I don’t particularly like a lot of the food on the trip.  The beef, which is extolled, is tough.  I get tired of chicken; the fish often has a heavy sauce on it so I’ve been eating a lot of spinach quiche, crepes, tarts.

Dan and I tried to go to the Teatro de Colon, the ballet and opera house with supposedly the best acoustics in the world,  but it had closed early. I tried going back the next day but it was impossible to see the main auditorium because they were working on lighting.  The cost was $20 to see the foyer, box office, and gift shop.  We said, “no, gracias.” 

Next blog:  Dan and Shirley learn the tango