Saturday, March 9, 2013

Santa Cruz, Blog 3


Santa Cruz, Chile   Blog 3

Whenever I travel, I always wonder if I’m going to like my latest trip as much as my last.  Each one is a wonderful experience, and today was no exception.

Right next door to the hotel is the Colchagua Museum considered one of the best museums in all of South America.  What a surprise to find this superb museum in a town of 32,000!  It is a privately owned collection put together by a controversial figure, Carlos Caroden, who is an arms dealer.  He also owns the hotel we’re staying in and the winery we visited. I can’t justify the basis for his income, but I have to admit I like how he spent his money.  I googled him and came up with a San Francisco Chronicle article about him from 2003.  He sold arms to Saddam Hussein in Iraq in the 80s, but many believe it was with the knowledge and approval of the U.S. government. Our government is still looking for him to arrest him.  He “hides out” in an isolated winery that he gets to by helicopter. Look him up if you’re interested.


The museum traces the history of Chile and the  other coutries in the Andes through fossils, dinosaurs, the prehistory of the indigenous peoples,(including the oldest mummies in the world),  the Spanish conquest and so on  all the way up to modern times.  Do you remember the saga of the Chilean miners just a few years ago?   There is a large exhibit devoted to their rescue. I especially liked the Inca exhibit because I covered the topic when I was teaching seventh grade social studies.  The Incas had no written language but they had a method of keeping track of information through knotted strings called a quipu.  It was thrilling for me to see authentic ones including one that was ginormous.

We next took our comfortable bus on a ride on the Cochagua Valley Wine Route.  It is very much like Napa Valley with fields of grape vines some going in terraces up gently sloping hills.  One of the reasons I like Vantage Tours is that they specialize in “cultural connections.”   Today we had lunch at the home of a charming woman (Cota) who shares a huge grape growing business with her 3 brothers.  In 2010 Chile had an 8.3 earthquake very close to this area. She just finished rebuilding her house, which was severely damaged.  We ate outside on her terrace overlooking a beautiful expanse of lawn surrounded by trees.  Her niece and a friend of her niece were visiting.  Amazingly the friend was from Israel!  We communicated in Spanish with Israeli and American accents.  Lunch was a mixture of salads, salads, and a tamale- like dish all accompanied by apricot juice (delicious!) and wine with fresh fruit for dessert.  After lunch we walked through eucalyptus groves past horses (her brothers ride in competitive polo) to the grape packing plant.  The grapes are exported to the U.S. and Russia.  I’m sure I’ve bought them at COSTCO.  By the way, when we got off and then back on the bus, she kissed all 23 of us on both cheeks.

On the way back, we stopped by Santa Cruz Vineyard where we took a funicular to the top of a mountain that had exhibits of the indigenous people (the term used in South America instead of Native American).  The people were the Mapuche, the Aymaras, and the Rapa Nui from Easter Island, which is owned by Chile.  We also took a tour of the winery and tasted 2 wines—not very good.

When we returned to Santa Cruz, the annual wine festival  celebrating the harvesting of grapes had started.  We walked along a street where people were selling arts and crafts of excellent quality and high prices.  A straw hat was $60!  I never, no-how, no-way eat food from street vendors in foreign countries; however, I was tempted in Chile.  The vendors wore hygienic head coverings and plastic gloves.   They were selling empanadas and skewers of chicken and meat.  We ended up eating at the hotel because there are very few restaurants in Santa Cruz; it was not wonderful.

The stage with musicians was directly opposite our room. While the music was very good, it was LOUD.  I put a pillow over my head and fell asleep.  Dan said the music ended around 11 PM>



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