Thursday, June 13, 2013

Lyon & Cluny, Blog 8


Vienne to Lyon to  Cluny, from Pheh to Phenomenal, Blog 8

A few observations:

For the most part, our fellow passengers are well-educated and well-travelled, but…..there are two ladies from Louisiana. Upon seeing a statue of a naked man, one turned to the other and said, “My, God, they show the man’s testicles!”   Even my grandsons responded with more maturity in Italy last year—not giggling once at David.

There are so many infirm people on this ship that I feel that we’re on a pilgrimage to Lourdes.

As you probably know, the rivers in Germany and other parts of Europe are all flooded.  Vantage is sending people home or if they haven’t left, cancelling their trips.  France is the only country that is still navigable.  The weather changes in a nano-second.  Today was warm (85), sunny, clear.  Now it’s pouring out.   It’s kind of fun being on board ship looking out at the rain.

That said, I had a wonderful day today.  But first, let me back up.
We were in a smallish town of Vienne a few days ago.   Dan really liked it—not sure why.  I could have skipped it.  With a few exceptions—a wonderful Roman temple—it was like any other modern town—modern shops, modern streets, modern traffic. We were supposed to take a tourist train to the top of the city for a view but it broke down.

However… that evening we arrived in Lyon, France’s third largest city situated at the confluence of the Rhône and Sôane Rivers. What a beautiful city!  I hope to return someday.  Lyon is known for being a culinary capital, the birthplace of motion pictures (the Luminiere brothers), universities, which make it lively, and a silk.  We had a demonstration of silk making on board ship.  The scarves were beautiful but at 70 euros there wasn’t one I thought worth the money.  I had bought a beautiful scarf depicting a scene from one of Breugel’s paintings in the Vienna Museum last fall (about the same price, but I loved it!).  The jacquard loom so tall it required 12 foot ceilings reads puncture marks like binary code on an early computer  By1850 there were 30,000 looms in Lyon.  


We visited the famous market, Les Halles.  In contrast to the one we visited the other day, this was very modern with displays so precise that I doubt if anyone touched the items.  It was also very expensive.  Smoked salmon was 99 euros a kilogram.  Even with a kilogram being 2 ½ pounds (I think) that is one expensive bite of lox!   Our guide told us that in Lyon they eat every part of the pig from the head to the tail—to me not very appetizing.  I saw a bottle of chicken schmaltz for some outrageous figure.  The entire place was more like a display of art that a food store. 

We drove to the most visited and popular site in Lyon—the Notre-Dame Basilica sitting atop Fourvière Hill (name taken from the Forum of Rome)  It is not terribly old,  started in 1870 and finished around WWI.    Dedicated to the Virgin Mary,the walls and floors are covered with glittering mosaics.  To me it seemed over-the-top and gaudy.  I prefer my churches old and musty. 

We went on a walking tour of Vieux Lyon, which offers the best concentration of well-preserved Renaissance buildings in France.
Lyon was a very rich city due to the silk trade. Inside Vieux Lyon are traboules, narrow serpentine passageways that were shortcuts linking the three main streets.  Silk merchants were able to move their goods safely.  Today you can still press a button next to an old door to enter into a magic world of loggias, spiral staircases, and delicate arches. 

In the afternoon we took a side trip to Perouges, a very tiny, quiet restored medieval town.  It was originally not part of France but of Saxony.  People were taxed for everything. Soldiers would search homes to look for salt not bought from the salt monopoly.  They knew all the hiding places, but……people were clever.  The soldiers would not disturb grandmere sitting in her chair so towns  people  would hide salt under the bottoms of the grandmeres.  I knew we were good for something! We enjoyed its famous dessert, La Gallette, a sugar covered thin-crusted pizza like dish, with a glass of champagne.  When we returned, we learned to play patenque a game like bocce ball outside of the ship.

Cluny today was a highlight of the trip for me.  We docked in Macon and took a short busride through Southern Burgundy—rolling green hills, red poppies, vineyards, tall trees.  From afar we viewed the Berzel Chatel, a medieval chateau currently occupied by a family.  It was the French equivalent of Downton Abbey.  I don’t know how they manage the upkeep.

Cluny—ah, Cluny, considered one of the finest Romanesque towns in France. (Have you noticed that everything is the finest, largest, smallest, oldest?!) You must wonder how I can still enjoy one more medieval building particularly a religious one, but I loved Cluny.  Cluny was the center of Christendom with its largest church—2 football fields long and containing five naves.  In 910 , 12 monks founded an abbey.  By 1100 it was the headquarters of 10,000 monks who followed Benedictine rule.  Very little of the original gigantic building remais, but there is enough to evoke a past page and it is very well presented including a 3-D movie and a a screen that when aimed at a ruin shows what it was like originally.  Our guide had a particularly thick French accent, and she kept talking about applesauce, which I later realized was “apostles.”

Immediately outside the abbey is the National Stud Farm.  We were able to watch trainers putting magnificent horses through their paces.  All of this was in an exquisite setting.

I was not looking forward to the goat cheese tasting wondering what I’d do while everyone ate (gag) goat cheese, but I had a wonderful time because of the adorable goats.  The nanny goats and kids were in an open barn.  In tans, browns, and whites they were more charming than our California goats and so playful.  One kid got a hold of my short, white skirt and I had to pry it out of his mouth.  The nanny goats meet the billy goats in October, and the baby goats are born within a two week period in February.  The cheese tasting was short and informal and I sat outside and watched a peregrine falcon soar overhead.

Tonight is our farewell dinner with abut 49 courses.  I have no patience for long, extended meals!


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