Tuesday, June 11, 2013

Viviers--the rest of the story, Blog 6


Viviers….the rest of the story, Blog 6

I called the structure at the top of the hill “the castle” when it’s really a cathedral.  I wasn’t entirely wrong because it seems that everyone calls it “the castle” perhaps because it was a fortified cathedral, built in the 11-12 centuries. The first bishop arrived in the fifth century.  Along with his canons, he lived in the height of luxury for his day at the top of the town, while the rest of the population lived below.  I loved this town because it very unrestored (is that a word?).  The homes really look as if they go back over a thousand years with marvelous old wooden doors (my son-in-law would love them) and very few, very small windows.  It is ironic to peek through a window to see a flat screen TV!  Among all the medieval houses stands a beautiful Renaissance home, Maison des Chevaliers (house of the knights) belonging to Noel Albert who lived in the 16th century. According to our guide he was a canon to the bishop—his right hand man—until he decided to become Protestant and joined the Huguenots to fight his bishop.  He was captured, quartered and thrown into the Rhone. 

The Saint-Vincent Cathedral is the smallest Cathedral in France and the oldest one still in use.  While I have seen larger and grander cathedrals, this is one of my favorites—small and exquisite with 7 Gobelin tapestries.  Three were stolen in the late 20th century.  Two of them turned up in Italy, but one remains lost—my guess it is hanging in a palacio along the Grand Canal in Venice.  Considering the size and weight of the tapestries, it must have been a well-planned heist.  In this beautiful venue we were treated to an organ concert, including pieces by Bach.  Magnifique!

Outside of the cathedral but not connected to it is a watchtower and beautiful views of the countryside:  green fields, mountains, the Rhone River, and a nuclear power plant!  The town center is tiny with no tourist shops except for one pottery store.  I bet if I return in 10 years it will have a McDonalds and chotzke shops.  We walked back to the ship along a long tree-lined street.  The plain trees, related to sycamore and maple, were planted to give shade to Napoleon’s army.  The Romans and Napoleon covered every inch of France.



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