Paris 2, Blog 11

Paris 2, Blog 11

We woke up late to thunder, lightening, and a heavy downpour.  Since many sights are closed on Monday, we had to be creative.  We could have gone to the Louvre, but I’ve been there 3 times and because of the rain and the Monday closures, I figured it would be mobbed.  We headed out at the crack of 11:45, which was fine as it was good to have a lazy morning.

Two minutes from our hotel was San Suplice, a church featured in “The Da Vinci Code”  and known for its outstanding organ.  I was sorry we missed the free Sunday organ concert the previous day, but we were on the other side of Paris.  Outside antique dealers were sheltered under white tents in the rain.  Beautiful items but unaffordable.

  Nearby was the Cluny, (Musée National du Moyen Art) featuring an outstanding exhibit of medieval art, sculpture, and architecture. It contains the famous Lady with A Unicorn tapestries—a series of 5, which some critics feel represent the 4 senses with the fifth being a combination of all 4.  HOWEVER, the tapestries were being repaired or were on loan to Japan.  My French couldn’t quite figure it out.  Nevertheless, I was not disappointed.  In addition to rooms filled with all kinds of medieval wonders, there was a temporary exhibition entitled “Flanders” which consisted of exquisite reliquaries and medieval manuscripts.  I’m a sucker for old books and these were superb.  The focus was the evolution from the Romanesque to the Gothic in religious art and writing.  I’m usually not a big fan of religious artifacts (mainly due to the ostentation of the objects while the poor were suffering at the time,) but the sheer beauty overcame my prejudices. 

As always, I run out of adjectives when I travel:  fascinating, incredible, breathtaking, superb, unique, beautiful, astonishing, exquisite.  I’m open to new suggestions…..

Dan wanted to return to the Marais to see the Place Des Vosges.

On our way to the metro, we walked through colorful streets with stores selling affordable chotzke probably made in China.  I actually bought a tees shirt for about $21.  In San Francisco, it would have been $10 at the wharf. 

We visited the Holocaust Memorial and Museum, which was open and free.  It had an excellent movie on the history of

Anti-Semitism—no English subtitles.  I understood enough to follow it.  I think if the purpose of it is to educate it needs the English sub-titles because it is such an important message and for many people in the world, English is their second language.   Outside was a wall honoring all the righteous French gentiles who helped save the Jews:  75% survived!   Thank you, France! Like many Shoah museums, there were rooms with walls covered with photographs of children who didn’t survive.  One large dark room had an eternal flame in a circular pit.  Under the floor was soil from Israel with the ashes of unknown victims buried beneath.

All over the world are museums dedicated to the Holocaust.  Many of them contain exhibits to other genocides in different times and places.   I think Dan gets a little tired of visiting them with me, but it’s important.  The generation who survived is dying.  In their honor, we need to “remember, never forget, and bear witness.” I kept thinking of my trip to Lithuania last summer, where 90% of the Jews were killed.  If my grandparents hadn’t come to America  in the early part of the twentieth century, I would not have been born.  

The Marais was totally different from the previous day:  no line at the falafel stand, no crowds pushing past.  We were able to window shop.   Although there was wonderful Judaica for sale, I’m not paying $200 for a dreidle! (this is for Debbie).

On our way to    we passed one of the few remaining medieval houses in Paris of half- timbered wood.  The Marais has more pre-revolutionary buildings than any where else in town and was the center of French aristocracy under Henry IV. We were happy to have umbrellas because it started pouring again—a very warm, humid rain. In the center of Place des Vosges, built by Henry IV in 1605,  is a lovely park.  Around the periphery nine pavilions per side with art galleries selling unusual, high quality art.  Victor Hugo lived nearby when he wrote “Les Miserables.”

We returned to our hotel on the metro during the height of rush hours.  Our first train was delayed.  When we got on, it stopped with such a lurch that we all fell into each other.  Think “back-to-back, belly-to=belly.”   Actually the metro is a wonderful system and we used it to get all over Paris.